“Disappointment to a noble soul is what cold water is to burning metal – it strengthens, tempers, intensifies, but never destroys it.”
The plan was there. The 20kg of climbing gear was there. The strength and preparation was there. I had it all figured out. Only, the weather decided otherwise. Chamonix, the center of climbing and the place to be for outdoor adventure in the Alpine arch. It is also the place with an average of 14 days of rain in July. Off course, I found out afterwards.
The first mistake I made, and I didn’t even start off, was to book an Alpine trip with an expedition company. You can’t control the weather, so these kinds of trips rarely work out with fixed dates. But unfortunately, I also found out afterwards.
Against all odds, the trip started off very good. A nice acclimatisation weekend with a trek to a 3109m peak and an overnight in the mountain hut at 2000m.
I asked the cook if they could get me something vegetarian for diner, but then I realised I was in France. You lower your food standards anyway when you’re in the mountains, so no worries. Dry pasta with cheese on top. It’s all good. I had the impression I was on sportscamp again and shared my bedroom with 10 snoring people. Bunk beds all the way. It felt like home.
The next day, we set off to the valley again, and this is where it all started to go downhill. The rain started to pour down. For 7 consecutive days. Good. So, what’s the plan ? The guides were not too optimistic about being able to get up the Matterhorn. But I kept the faith. 
Monday morning, we set off for the Petite Aiguille Verte at 3600m for mixed climbing graded AD. Connected to each other with a fixed rope on moderately steep snow and rock. A few abseils and fist jams are usefull on this kind of rock, but rather easy pitches. I’d grade it PD. Still some blue parts in the sky above 3000m, but once descending, it’s all gone. Afterwards, we went for some rock climbing in Les Gaillands. Back to the office for an evening session on fall-factors.
Tuesday, still bad weather, rain and snow. We just heard 2 people froze to death on Mont Blanc yesterday. Ok, they set off at 8pm, so that is basically preparing your own obituary, but it shows how vicious the weather was. 
Not without risk, we prepared to climb the North Face of the the Aiguille de Midi, called Arête des Cosmiques, graded AD+. I enjoyed the exposure and the more difficult crack passage near the end. It took us 2,5 hours to finish it. The La Sportiva are super comfortable. Evening session on the weather, low pressure areas, stratosphere and Katabatic (or Anabatic?) winds. This stuff is complicated.
Stratocumulus or not, when it rains, it pours. Wednesday morning, they are calling Matterhorn definitely off. Damnit. Dissappointment strucks deep. A quick 2 pitch rockclimb to ease the pain. But it didn’t work.
Thursday morning, what do you know. It’s raining. We got up very early and left for Italy. 
The Valle d’Aosta is on the other side of Mont Blanc, but there the sun decided to shine. Good. Gearing up for a 14 multi-pitch 6A+ route called Par Condicio. Excellent weather. Sunburned. Clove hitches save lifes. And the Italian army is definitely gay.
This trip became a really expensive rock climbing course, but the most important thing is that I have learned a lot. To finish the week in beauty we decided to get some vertical rock. A 5 pitch classic route in the Aiguille Rouge called Voie Frison-Roche. 6a – 5b – 5c – 6a – 5c. Made a quick video on the last pitch below. I am not really into traverses apparently. Cold and misty, but way too epic. I will definitely be back next summer to tackle the big peaks. Looking forward to Nepal now. 2 months to go. I love climbing.
